Persoalan Carb 2

SOALAN

1.setting rich pikap sdap??bkn pikap kurang ker sbb bobok time starting(rpm rendh)?

2.lebey kurang blok rxz size 2.00(paling besa 125z).aku rse pilot aku trlebey besa sbb time pg2 stat timing nek sndiri, pstu pelan2 dia tron sendiri.stakat nih bley lg maintain 180.tpi klo bwk slow mmg xbesh.hmm,klo men setting skru angin/myk bley jeh kan?tkyh tuka mj ngan pj da kn?dan lg satu kalo plug uh bengkok pe mkne nyer?(yg blah atas uh da sentuh puting)

3.so besa lagi pilot, tendency untuk carb pegi lagi jao tu tinggi(ha,mkne nyer throttle rse cam lebey pnjg?). kalo da blok besau nih mmg xpat nk dpt dua2(top n pikap) kn?mksd nyer kalo pikap sedap tpi top xpat nk pegi lame sbb set kering.tapi kalo top bley maintain tggi,pikap msty bobok jeh kn?


JAWAPAN MENGIKUT ILMU

1. x bobok la...kalau terlalu lean die akan bobok...x caya try... Cheesy...sbb tu klau dalam cuprix mj lagi besa...sbb nk minyak byk...top pon cepat...(tapi ni da porting boleh la)...try pulas-lepas cepat2 time too lean dgn too rich...mana yg enjin x respon sangat...msti yg too lean..sbb myk x ckup Roll Eyes

2.owh...klau menjerit pagi2 tu seting cun...+ menjerit sebab udara sempit...pilot besao x de sangat menjerit2 pagi2...ni kes pilot cun, MJ cun, setting cun die akan jadi camni...tapi ssh nak dapat set camni...dapat pon, kadang2 x sesuai dengan keaadaan time bwk moto...eg: jalan jao2, dan sebagainya...so setting ni ikut rasa hati la...

3.kalau rxz, pilot 275 Mj 210 pon da ok...leh pegi lagi klau saiz 2.00..sbb bore=stroke...so x de masalah...benda ni kene calculate...x sama jenis moto std kilang kuar die nye bore+stroke...nak tau lagi lanjut g kat thread bore vs stroke...
stakat ni x rasa lagi la set dapat pikup bobok-top lemau...dapat la jgak 140 atas highway dari pontian -KL... rpm 7-8.5...tendency untuk pg jao tu cam throttle x pyh pulas abes pon da leh dapat top...maintain... yg rembat2 ni seting diorang msti lain...
psl top bley maintain tggi,pikap msty bobok jeh kn?, ni mmg jadik kalau too lean...sbb klau set cun msti x jadik pnye... cuba try wat lean sesangat..

Persoalan tentang Carb dan Setting

Nape aku xpnh tgk pn plug aku ader kaler putih..slalu nyer sume itam jeh.

Ada..time baru belikan putih Cheesy..org x cari putih pun...org nak perang2...
kalo ader lebihan petrol kat bulatan kt plug tuh pe mkner nyer?

oil foulded...a.k.a longgokan petrol x terbakar...lama2 t jadi die akan jemput karbon lepak skali

ha,kalo kt thread plug tuh ader myk mkne nyer pilot besau eh?

x jugak..mebi seting salah...@ menjet telalu besar...n bukan pilot..

cmner nk tau kalo 2t ckup ke x?

kalau stat pagi, asap banyak +panas pon ada kuar sikit je, ok la tuh...std 2 thread..

kalo pulas/pkse gak asap kuar byk tetibe,pastu kalo pulas lmer lg, plug kong tros.

check CDI..@ coil api megnet...tp tuka plug dlu, test setting std...@ setting ko rich sgt...


bile aku pulas skru angin tuh lebey skit,bw ley nek tggi.tpi aku takut kering sgt.plug slalu jeh bengkok blah atas tuh.

bengkok?? rpm makin besar angin die akan naik lagi...tp klau besar2 tkut pikup
bobok...

org kte plug 2stroke mmg kne bsh2 skit an?

smua stroke kene basah2 siket...untuk galakkan pembakaran+jaga plug..

dan lgi stu,pe function pilot jet tuh?salah saiz bley jem keh?

PJ tuh utk kawal jumlah kebolehan angin masuk kat dalam carb...campuran nih dikawal oleh screw angin..

rpm aku cepat tron tpi keliling/thread plug bsh plak.

turun cepat...???smua mutot rpm turun cepat...klau x turun cepat seting carb gagal

rpm cepat tron mkne nyer pilot kecik/tpi kalo keliling plug bsh plak pilot besau kan.

ooohh..aku paham... pilot kecik lubang sempit...tu yg mksd ko rpm cepat tuh kan...hmmm...memang btol...tapi takut minyak x sampai je time top...len la pandai seting "KERING" police police police
keliling plug basah tuh rasanya mj...sbb slalunya warna kat ring tu je org perhati...basah2 kat puting tengah2 tu yg org observed..

Kelebihan Rantai Pelbagai Saiz

Rantai dicipta berbagai2 size utk handle torque yang berbeza2,,,

lg tinggi torque n berat motot kene la lg tebal..

sebab tu ada 25h, 415, 420, 428, 520, 525 etc,,
klu 25h tu poket bike pakai.. 415-428 cub pakai... 520 tu biasa 150cc 2 stroke / 250 4 stroke keatas pakai.

Rantai sebenarnya elok ditukar 1 set sekali dgn sproket. Cuma, kekadang tu ada pengguna menggunakan rantai yg elok dicampur dgn sproket lokal atau non branded. Jadi sproket tu memang cepat tajam. So, bila jangkahayat sproket terlalu pendek, maka kebanyakan nya menukarkan sproket sahaja tanpa menukar rantai baru.

Dalam ertikata lain, kalau selalu menggunakan motor dgn jarak perjalanan yang jauh, elok menukar rantai dan sproket dengan sama jenama/yang bagus. Kalau main dalam bandar jer, aku rasa ok sket kot kalau pakai rantai lain, sproket lain jenama.

lagi satu, untuk ketahanan lebih bagi pengguna yg mementingkan keselamatan dan ketahanan, boleh pakai rantai yg ada H dibelakang.....itu mewakili Heavy Duty. Contoh seperti 428H.

Kalau selalu jalan jauh, dinasihatkan bawak spare klip penyambung rantai atau Chain Clip Connector. Jgn jadi macam aku, Chain Clip ada, tapi lupa nak bawak.......nak dijadikan cerita pulak, rantai putus kat penyambungnya tgh2 malam kat highway Gua Musang...kiri kanan hutan daa. Sorang plak tu....!!! Haru....haru.....! So, beringat sebelum kena....

Spesifikasi Enjin Honda Wave 125

Spesifikasi Enjin Honda Wave 125

ENGINE

Engine Type : Air cooled, 4 cycle engine OHC
Bore & Stroke : 52.4mm X 57.9mm
Displacement : 124.8cc
Compression Ratio : 9.3 : 1
Engine Starter System : Kick Starter/Electric Starter
Lubricating Oil Capacity : 0.9 liters (After draining)

POWER TRANSMISSION

Clutch : Automatic centrifugal & Multi wet clutch
Transmission : 4 speed constant mesh
Gear Ratio : 1st Gear - 2.500 (35/14)
2nd Gear - 1.550 (31/20)
3rd Gear - 1.150 (23/20)
4th Gear - 0.923 (24/26)
Primary reduction ratio - 3.350 (67/20)
Final reduction ratio - 2.500 (35/14)

ELECTRICAL

Ignition : CDI
Battery : 12V-2.5AH (Kick Starter)
12V-3.5AH (Electric Starter)

DIMENSIONS

Overall Length : 1889mm(WaveS)/1930mm(WaveX)
Overall Width : 706mm(WaveS)/692mm(WaveX)
Overall Height : 1076mm(WaveS)/1092mm(WaveX)
Wheelbase : 1240mm(WaveS)/1244mm(WaveX)


CHASSIS

Frame : Back bone
Suspension : (Front)Telescopic, (Rear)Swingarm
Fuel Capacity : 3.7 liters
Tyre Measurement : (Front tyre) 70/100-17M/C 40P, (Rear tyre) : 80/90-17M/C 50P
Caster : 26?30'
Tail : 73mm

PERFORMANCE

Maximum Horse Power : 10.1PS/7500rpm (DIN)
Maximum Torque : 1.05kgf.m/5000rpm (DIN)


Formula mengira cc(cylinder capasity)

bore x bore x stroke x 0.7854 / 1000
note : bore = saiz piston(mm), stroke = pnjg lejang(mm)

Yamaha Lagenda 115z :::: NEW::::

In terms of design, Yamaha Lagenda 115ZR is one of the most heavily designed moped
ever from Yamaha. Simplicity is not taken into consideration here. Everything about luxury and techno-style. This may raise some concerns among riders that like to see their bike simple and functional like Honda EX-5, well then, this bike is not for you. You need to be someone who are adventurous and like to try something new. The part that is most talked about the design is the tail lamp. Some have said the Yamaha engineer has over-designed the tail lamp. It is new and it is different, but it serve a function. The tail lamp has now been increased in terms of height that makes it easily seen by the other vehicles coming from behind of the Yamaha Lagenda 115ZR. It is much higher than Yamaha 135LC tail lamp and almost with the same height as the Yamaha 125Z. Also, the side profile (when you look at the bike from the side) have a very forward stance bike that makes it look fast even though it is not moving. Young, fast and stylish is what this bike is all about.

Ride and handling of this bike is superb. The handle is very directive and follows your command. No sense of slipping over with this bike. Compared to Modenas CT110 which tends to wobble on sharp corners, this one just eat it through like it is mean to do it. It is firm and in control. What this mean is that, taking corners are now safer and the riders can feel more confident. With that in mind, the suspension feels hard and not so comfortable. I suspect this is due to the suspension that is not still in run-in condition. Anyway, this is just 0-55km review, I think the handling will get much better after the bike gets 1000km which makes the suspension a little softer and much more responsive. I’ve got bumpy feeling while riding this bike on straight line and this feeling is the same when I changed my Yamaha RX-Z front suspension to a new one, but it will disappear after a few hundred km of riding.

If you want to buy this bike, I strongly recommend you to buy this at GT Max Motor in Seksyen 25, Shah Alam. I just plonked down RM1500 for the downpayment and for 24-month loan, I just need to pay RM230. Additional RM200 is needed if you want to get first party all-rider insurance coverage. I paid mine. Also, you’ll get a free helmet (MS88 with visor or Swan helmet), free front fork lock, padlock, rain suit and a mystery gift (I got a Rossi cap) when you buy the bike there. GT Max Motor I think provide the cheapest loan available and it is actually loan provided by the shop, not by Aeon.

If you have any question about this bike, you can ask in the comment section and I’ll try to answer it. Thanks!

Sedikit Info Tentang Yamaha Lagenda115z

Hai kepada motoris satu malaysia sekalian, aku minta maap sebab da lame x update blog ni, atas sebab study dan tugas yang perlu aku pikul. Mahu bermotoran pon x sempat.

Di kesempatan ini, saya ingin berkongsi sedikit info tentang motor keluaran Yamaha terbaru, iaitu Yamaha Lagenda 115z yang baru saja keluar. Gambarnya x sempat nak upload.

Kawan saya baru sahaja membeli motor tersebut, namun dia mendapati, motornya terlalu bergetar. Oleh itu, dia mencari penyelesaian. motor beliau yang baru lepas pantang ari ni, telah bebas dari masalah tersebut.

Hal ini kerana, seorang foreman di sini, telah berjaya menurunkan timing motornya (anggaran 2.5K- Asal, 3.++K).

Dengan itu, selesailah masalah tersebut dan motor tersebut sudah makin senyap dan amat lancar tunggangannya.

sekian